Destinations
A day in Formentera from Ibiza
Formentera is a short hop from Ibiza and has the clearest water in the Balearics. It is the day trip par excellence and, done calmly, one of the best plans you can put together in the Mediterranean. Done in a rush, it is a day of sailing a lot and enjoying little.
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Photo by Ana Ulin · CC BY-SA 2.0
The crossing
Between the south of Ibiza and the north of Formentera lies the es Freus channel, with the islets of Espardell and Espalmador in the middle. It is a short stretch but with current and ferry traffic, so it is sailed attentively.
From the Ibiza town or Ses Salines area the trip is quick. From Sant Antoni, on the other hand, you have to go round half the island and the day gets considerably longer: a difference worth bearing in mind when choosing a departure port.
Ses Illetes
This is the beach that made Formentera famous: a spit of brilliant white sand with almost pinkish tones, and transparent water shifting from turquoise to blue with depth. It sits inside the Ses Salines natural park, so there are regulated anchoring zones that must be respected to the letter.
The bottom is sand, but it is dotted with posidonia meadows — and those meadows are precisely why the water is so clean. Anchoring on them is prohibited and fined, so you need to find the sandy clearing or use a buoy where one exists.
s’Espalmador
Just to the north, separated by a shallow pass, is the island of s’Espalmador. It is partly private and protected, with no services at all: no bars, no kiosks, no organised shade. What there is: white sand, exceptionally clear water and silence.
That is exactly why it is the best stop of the day for lunch on board. You anchor, eat unhurried and spend the afternoon in the water with no other plan.
Eating in Formentera arriving by boat
If you would rather go ashore, there are several well-known places around Illetes that work with anchored boats and answer on VHF.
- Juan y Andrea
- The best known at Ses Illetes, feet in the sand and plenty of history behind it. Works by reservation and collects anchored guests.
- Es Molí de Sal
- In an old salt mill, with more refined Mediterranean cooking and a dinghy service. The most formal option in the area.
- Beso Beach
- Next to Cavall d’en Borràs beach, near the harbour entrance. Basque-Mediterranean cooking and a livelier atmosphere.
The order that works
Leave early, cross before the wind gets up, make the first stop at Illetes while there is still room, and leave Espalmador for midday and the afternoon. The way back, with the sun low, is one of the finest passages in the Pitiusas.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take from Ibiza to Formentera by boat?
From the south of Ibiza, between thirty minutes and an hour depending on the boat. From Sant Antoni you have to go round the island and it takes considerably longer.
Can you anchor freely at Ses Illetes?
No. It is inside a natural park with regulated zones and a ban on anchoring over posidonia. You must use the sandy clearings or authorised buoys.
Are there restaurants on s’Espalmador?
No. The island has no services at all, so you need to bring food and water from the boat.